Golf in Abu Dhabi is a comparatively recent phenomenon. Indeed, the place itself has only risen out of the desert in the last quarter century or so as huge oil revenues have financed spectacular construction and all manner of remarkable development. The benign tax regime and appealing lifestyle has attracted a great many overseas workers, especially from Britain. And it was the Brits who initially prompted the construction of the golf courses.
The very first was the Al Ghazal Golf Club, which is just a few hundred yards from the main airport and is quite fascinating. Doubtless disliked by greenkeepers, fertiliser salesmen and mower manufacturers, it is testimony to man’s ingenuity and a triumph of golf over adversity.
In every respect bar a couple, Al Ghazal is just like every other golf course around the world. The only significant differences are that the fairways are yellow and the greens are brown. It’s a sand course originally created by crazed Brits desperate to wield a club again.
Many great golfers have walked down its sandy fairways including, appropriately enough, Sandy Lyle. All will have enjoyed the novel experience of teeing the ball up on a soft strip sandwiched between two firmer bands upon which you stand; one side for right-handers, the other for lefties. A handy trowel and broom by each tee box enables players to smooth the strip back for the next group.
Assuming you land on the fairway (indicated by green posts), you lift your ball and place it on a square of plastic turf. If, however, you miss the fairway, then you play the ball as it lies.
Here the greens are ‘browns’. Composed of a mix of oil and sand, they are fiendishly contoured but putt remarkably true. Spikes should not be worn but even smooth soled shoes leave footprints. A friendly fellow armed with a broom followed our fourball, smoothed things over for us and was well worth the modest tip we gave him.
For a more conventional golfing experience, the Abu Dhabi Golf Club is strongly recommended. This is where the Abu Dhabi Golf Championship has been held every year since the inaugural tournament in 2006. Played in the middle of January, it is the first really big event of the year, offers a huge prize fund and always attracts a world-class field. Rory McIlroy invariably plays and both Tiger Woods and Phil Mickelson have thought it worthwhile to fly over from the States.
The course always earns huge praise from the players and it’s not hard to see why as it’s both a fair test and magnificently well maintained. With the ground banked up on both sides of most fairways, it has the distinct feel of a stadium course, which is great for spectators. It’s also good for golfers as it provides clear contouring and definition on what would otherwise be comparatively. Eminently walkable when it’s not too hot, it has other attractive features including pretty flowerbeds and impressive palm trees, which add to the considerable visual appeal.
There’s water on every hole… to drink that is! There’s also a liberal sprinkling of lakes and ponds. From quite a few holes you catch sight of the stunning clubhouse. Shaped like a falcon with its wings spread out, it really is very impressive. And it is every bit as attractive on the inside, being light, airy and blissfully cool.
One great course does not a destination make. And Abu Dhabi would not have become as popular with golfers as it has without the recent addition of two really outstanding courses.
Although purists might quibble it is not a genuine links, nevertheless Yas Links is such a truly stunning course that so closely resembles the real thing that it really hardly matters whether the humps and hollows are man-made or not. Designed by the rightly-acclaimed Kyle Phillips, it runs alongside the Arabian Gulf on the western shore of Yas Island. Sensuously shaped from the sand, it has all the glorious links’ features one would hope to find and if it were not so warm and sunny, you could almost imagine you were in Scotland!
Close to the world-famous racetrack and a rich assortment of top quality hotels, it is ideally situated and frequently comes out on top when experts compile a list of the very best Middle Eastern courses.
Another prime candidate for that enviable slot is the very latest addition to Abu Dhabi’s quality courses, Saadiyat Beach. Designed by the great Gary Player, it too makes the most of its stunning location right on the Arabian Gulf and is wonderfully easy on the eye. Extremely long but with forward tee options, it has bunkers large enough to accommodate a camel train and greens that are very close to perfection.
Apart from golf, there are plenty of other fun things to do in Abu Dhabi. Driving up and over the desert dunes is a popular excursion, frequently followed by a barbecue dinner under the stars with a camel ride, belly dancer and all that sort of thing. There are innumerable sandy beaches and truly outstanding hotels. Irrespective of whether or not you stay in it, the extraordinarily spectacular Emirates Hotel with its illuminated domes that regularly change colour and opulent interior with about four-and-a-half acres of marble per guest, is a must-see. Apart from that, there are, I’m reliably informed, excellent shopping opportunities for those who actually enjoy shopping.
When is the best time to go? In Abu Dhabi the height of the season is in inverse proportion to the temperature; the higher the temperature, the lower the season. So the sweltering months of May to September are understandably the least popular whereas what might laughingly be called the ‘winter’ months from October to April are just about perfect for golf. Don’t be tempted by the reduced summertime green fees as playing in temperatures high enough to fry an egg on the blade of your pitching wedge is rather unappealing.
